Field notes The Energy Transition for the Rest of Us

Catalyst N° 048 of 125 23 Jan 2025

The climate-ag grab bag

with Mike Grunwald, journalist and author of the forthcoming book ‘We Are Eating the Earth’

In this note
  1. 01The question
  2. 02The answer
  3. 03The argument
  4. 04What you need to know first
  5. 05Details worth keeping
  6. 06Claims worth citing
  7. 07Where it’s contested

The question

Food and land are about a third of global emissions and are on track to consume far more land by 2050. What actually fixes that?

The answer

The episode does not land on one answer, and Grunwald is explicit that no single lever comes close: even halving rich-country beef consumption and halving global food waste would still leave a large yield gap to close. What it has instead of a thesis is a single test that Grunwald applies to everything, calories per acre, on the grounds that land conversion is where the carbon is. That test inverts the usual environmental ranking, making industrial agriculture an asset and yield-reducing practices a liability, and the rest of the conversation is a grab bag of technologies graded against it.

03The argument

The framing does most of the work, so it is worth stating precisely. Three things have to happen at once: produce far more calories, on no additional land, with far fewer emissions. Grunwald’s numbers are large. Nearly 10 billion people by 2050 need roughly six quadrillion more calories, which he renders as a dozen extra Olive Garden breadsticks per person per day. Food and land are about a third of total emissions and have to fall 75% to 80%. And on the current trajectory, even assuming yields keep improving at the rate they did through the green revolution, feeding that population takes about 1.5 billion additional acres, which he calls two more Indias and which in practice means the Amazon and the Congo. If yields stopped improving entirely it would be seven more Indias, and since yield growth has actually tapered over the past couple of decades, the recent rate implies three. What makes this a land problem rather than a hunger problem is a point he is careful about: the world is reasonably good at meeting food demand, because if people will pay for food, someone grows it. Almost a billion people are food insecure and that is terrible, but the binding failure mode is not famine. It is that the extra food gets grown by clearing the forests and wetlands that are storing the carbon.

Once land is the constraint, the usual environmental ranking flips. Grunwald does not soft-pedal the case against industrial agriculture and lists it himself: animals treated badly, people treated badly, too many antibiotics, water and air pollution, real greenhouse gas emissions, bad politics. His defense is narrow and functional. Factories are good at manufacturing, and agriculture’s job for the next 25 years is to manufacture a great deal of food without expanding its footprint. His evidence for what happens when you subtract the inputs is Sri Lanka, where an agrochemical ban was followed by collapsing yields, a country that could no longer feed itself, and production and pollution exported elsewhere. The same logic demotes regenerative agriculture, and the demotion is more qualified than it is usually reported. He grants that regenerative practices do good things for soil and can help on-farm biodiversity in moderate ways, and says some regenerative practices are consistent with excellent yields and he is all for those. His objection is specifically to the yield-reducing kind, which he thinks is most of it: agriculture that is less intensive has to be more extensive, and the extra acres come out of peatland and forest. A practice can lower emissions on the field it is applied to and raise them globally.

The same test then ranks food itself, and this is where he puts most of the available leverage. Beans, lentils and other pulses are the most land-efficient calories, with corn and soy close behind; chicken and pork are worse; beef and other ruminants are, in his word, spectacularly inefficient. It takes about nine calories of grain to make one calorie of chicken, while beef runs 30, 50, or by some accounts 100 times less efficient than eating the grain directly, and dairy is worse than chicken. That reframes the cattle problem in a way worth holding onto. The methane in the burps is real, and he is enthusiastic rather than dismissive about feed additives, which some people think cut emissions by as much as 80% while the animal is being fed them. But cattle spend only a small fraction of their lives in feedlots, and the burps are a small part of what makes beef a climate problem. The larger prize is producing beef on less land. He points to degraded Brazilian cattle ranches, hundreds of millions of acres carrying almost no cows, where better grass and water infrastructure can triple or sometimes quadruple output. His framing is the Willie Sutton one: go where the emissions are.

What keeps the argument honest is that he refuses to let any single lever carry the load, including his own. Even a 50% cut in rich-country beef consumption combined with a 50% cut in global food waste, both very large wins, would still leave the need to raise yields significantly. And the supply side is harder than it was, because the green revolution already spread and the easy gains are taken: only 5% to 7% of the world’s irrigable farmland still needs irrigating, roughly half the fertilizer already applied is wasted, so more fertilizer is not the answer, and climate change is itself a threat to yields, with some scientists putting potential wheat losses as high as a third over the next few decades. What he asks for is not more green revolution but a greener one: fertilizers that get nitrogen into plants instead of into the Gulf of Mexico, where the dead zone is the size of Connecticut, and without the nitrous oxide emissions that come with it. That is the shape of the conclusion, which is less a conclusion than a refusal to accept a small one. We need to do all the things.

04What you need to know first

Why land use is a climate variable
Forests, peatlands and wetlands store large amounts of carbon. Converting them to farmland releases it. So an agricultural practice that produces less food per acre pushes cultivation onto new land somewhere, and the emissions from that conversion can swamp whatever the practice saved on the original field.
The green revolution
The wave of higher-yielding crop varieties, synthetic fertilizer, mechanization and irrigation that began in the 1960s. It roughly tripled yields, and it is the trend line every 2050 projection in this episode extrapolates from.
Feed conversion efficiency
How many calories of animal feed it takes to produce one calorie of meat or dairy. It is the number that makes beef and land-use arithmetic inseparable.
Nitrous oxide
The greenhouse gas released when nitrogen fertilizer is applied and not taken up by the plant. Grunwald puts it at about 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide; Kann adds that it is the third-largest source of greenhouse gas emissions after carbon dioxide and methane.

05Details worth keeping

  • Indoor farming. Grunwald calls himself a skunk at that party. He is more bullish on greenhouses than fully closed vertical farms, because sunlight beats manufacturing your own light, and expects metropolitan greenhouses to displace lettuce grown in southern California and Arizona and trucked across the country. Indoor farming may solve the lettuce problem and perhaps eventually strawberries, but not the food problem: a couple hundred acres against the billions under cultivation. His most interesting suggestion is that a vertical farm may be worth more as a laboratory than as a factory, since AeroFarms has the most closely monitored plants in the history of agriculture and what it learns may transfer outdoors. Kann notes AeroFarms filed for bankruptcy.
  • Cultivated meat. Excellent on climate; the obstacles are cost, taste and regulation. Grunwald has eaten cultivated burger, fried chicken and salmon and rates the result above plant-based substitutes, because it is meat from an animal rather than an imitation of it. Growing the muscle without the hooves, the breathing and the reproductive system is intrinsically efficient, but the industry is currently making food with pharmaceutical-grade equipment, and it cannot get to scale without being cheap or get cheap without scale. Hence his view that government support has to be part of the answer, which he sizes against Inflation Reduction Act battery factories in Georgia worth roughly twice the industry’s entire investment history, and against a solar industry that took in something like $250 billion in six months.
  • Crop genetics. He calls the consumer revolt against genetically modified crops sad, and regulatory obstruction with it, while also saying GMO crops have been somewhat disappointing in what they actually delivered. He rates gene editing higher, including a project using CRISPR and supercomputers to try to improve photosynthesis, which he notes is an inefficient process despite having sustained all life on earth.
  • Food waste. Wasting food wastes the land, fertilizer, water, labor and emissions behind it. He likes this problem because the incentives are already aligned, unlike beef: everyone would rather not throw food away. Behavioral nudges work, including pay-by-the-ounce cafeterias and smaller plates. On the technology side he names inventory management using blockchain or artificial intelligence, and a company the transcript renders as Appeal, which makes an invisible, tasteless organic coating that slows ripening in avocados and bananas.
  • Other things he is optimistic about. Plant-based meat, particularly fungi-based proteins blended with real meat or plants, on the grounds that it can be made to taste good and be cheap; and biofertilizers and biopesticides.
  • His own position. He has cut out beef to avoid journalistic hypocrisy but still eats meat. He adds that going vegetarian is usually about the same as just cutting beef, because vegetarians eat more dairy.

06Claims worth citing

All figures as stated on 2025-01-23. The 2050 projections are long-horizon estimates; the cultivated meat cost and investment figures and the indoor farming status are the items most likely to have moved.

  • Nearly 10 billion people to feed by 2050, requiring about six quadrillion more calories. Grunwald
  • Food and land account for about a third of total emissions and need to fall 75% to 80%. Grunwald
  • On the current trajectory, about 1.5 billion additional acres by 2050, which he calls two more Indias. At zero further yield growth, seven more Indias; at the slower rate of the last couple of decades, three. Grunwald
  • Yields roughly tripled since the 1960s, and livestock efficiency also improved by about a factor of three. Grunwald
  • Only 5% to 7% of the world’s irrigable agricultural land still needs irrigating. Grunwald
  • About half of applied fertilizer is wasted. Grunwald
  • Nitrous oxide is about 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide, and the Gulf of Mexico dead zone is the size of Connecticut. Grunwald
  • Climate change could cut wheat yields by as much as a third over the coming decades, attributed loosely to “some scientists.” Grunwald
  • About nine calories of grain per calorie of chicken meat. Beef is 30, 50, or by some accounts 100 times less efficient than eating grain directly; the range is given loosely and the base is not defined precisely. Grunwald
  • Feed additives are thought by some to cut cattle emissions by as much as 80% while the animal is on them. Grunwald
  • Degraded Brazilian cattle ranches cover hundreds of millions of acres, which he describes as several Iowas’ worth, and their efficiency can often be tripled or quadrupled. Grunwald
  • Global agriculture uses roughly 12 billion acres. Grunwald
  • Cultivated meat costs have fallen at least 99.9% and probably closer to 99.99% over the past decade; total industry investment to date is about $3 billion. Grunwald
  • Roughly a quarter of food is wasted, and the average American wastes more than $1,000 a year of it. Grunwald
  • A London behavioral campaign cut household food waste 25% within months; he is unsure of the name and offers Love Food Hate Waste. Grunwald
  • Almost a billion people are currently food insecure. Grunwald
  • Nitrous oxide is the third-largest source of greenhouse gas emissions, behind carbon dioxide and methane. Kann

07Where it’s contested

  • The host frames the op-ed harder than the guest will. Kann’s opening monologue says industrial agriculture is basically the only thing holding us back from worse climate calamity and that we may need much more of it. When he then describes the piece as a defense of industrial agriculture, Grunwald interrupts to correct it to “at least semi defense.” Kann replies that it felt pretty full throated to him. Grunwald’s own version is narrower: industrial agriculture is good at one specific job, making a lot of food on little land, and that job happens to be the one that matters most.
  • His position on regenerative agriculture is narrower than the summary of it. Kann puts it to him that regenerative farming is the wrong way to tackle the problem. Grunwald says he is oversimplifying and points to his book, then gives a scoped answer: regenerative practices do help soil and biodiversity, some are consistent with excellent yields and he supports those, and his objection applies to the extent that a practice reduces yield.
  • Same pattern on feed additives. Kann offers “bandaid that’s a distraction” as one option. Grunwald rejects the framing directly, says he is very excited about feed additives, and then agrees they are less important than producing beef more efficiently. Ranked below, not dismissed.
  • He explicitly refuses to predict cultivated meat succeeds. Some people think it never will. His own answer is that he has faith in smart people working on hard problems but he would be lying if he claimed to know it will work, and that they might.
  • He flags the limits of his confidence on indoor farming. He says he does not want to have excess confidence relative to knowledge, and allows that someone may solve the energy problem that is currently the sticking point for vertical farms and for greenhouses that run at night.
  • He is a journalist summarizing a book, not presenting primary research. He says more than once that he is compressing, and several of the numbers are offered as ranges or with attribution to unnamed scientists.

Cite as: “The climate-ag grab bag,” The Energy Transition for the Rest of Us, note on Catalyst with Shayle Kann, January 23, 2025. CC BY 4.0. View the Markdown